The following article was contributed by Hugo, a native of the UK. Hugo’s expertise and interests lie with EDC (every-day carry) for which he contributes articles and videos in various contexts/specialities related to that. His YouTube channel, “The EDC Guy”, can be found here
What falls under the category of EDC?
When I look across the Internet, I find that many groups use this term. Knives, Flashlights, Cameras, Pens, Handguns, and many other things often have the label of EDC attached to them. Many interest groups claim that it originated with them. I have no idea when this term came into being or where it came from.
Everyday carry seem obvious enough but when you look closer you will see that the definition can be quite loose.
If we carry a certain item 5 days out of the week, is it EDC? I think it still is.
What if we carry an item all of the time except under special conditions when we substitute it with a more specialized tool or larger tool? I still think it is EDC but this is open to debate.
EDC I think is different things to different people in one way or another. I have seen people debate about this subject. A person in a rural area has different needs than a person from a city. One person’s life might depend on his EDC one day while another person just likes to carry certain items. EDC might be different for people depending on their occupation/hobbies. One person may EDC a full sized item where another carries a small item. I am not sure how tight or how loose the boundaries of EDC should be. Perhaps we can figure this out or maybe there is no perfect answer.
I think that that there are many reasons that people would EDC. It could be that it is really useful/practical to EDC many items daily. Some items may be carried a lot but used little awaiting some need to occur. Several EDC items are functional or non-functional luxury items/status symbols. An EDC item can be for comfort or just fun to have and play with. There are many other reasons besides.
If it is in your car everyday, is that another level of EDC? I don’t know what I think on this but have had the thought many times. Maybe there are levels of EDC.
The text above is an edited quote from the EDCforums, on the philosophy of EDC, by JonSidneyB, the forums’ founder. The original can be found here.
I found this blog as a result of an interest in EDC, then preparedness, but felt that EDC as a concept is not dealt with as thoroughly as it should be in comparison to, say, Bug-Out Bags. So I am writing this article, to educate people about the usefulness of taking care of your EDC.
Note: I live in the UK, where handguns and knives of over 3″ are, to all intents and purposes, illegal. Because of this, I will not discuss the use of knives or handguns in EDC in this article.
In my experience there are two types of EDC: that which is carried ‘on-person’ and that which is carried somehow else, normally in a bag or pack. I’ll start with the first type.
It is important to keep the essentials of your life in your pockets. Your phone, keys and wallet for most people.
However, if you were going on a hike, or doing a bug out drill, what would become one of your essentials? Flashlight, knife (though I’m not discussing that here) multi-tool with decent pliers and screwdriver, lighter/matches/tinder etc. right?
If you truly want to live a prepared lifestyle, you need to stop isolating your ‘normal EDC’ from your ‘prep/hike/at home EDC’. When I first got into EDC, I carried a phone, keys and wallet. now I carry a phone, keys, wallet, multi-tool (blade-less), lighter, simple first-aid kit, needle and thread, pen, and notebook.
You might think that all of that would take up a lot of space but actually, I only sacrificed one hip pocket in a normal pair of trousers.
If you decide to carry similar equipment to me, I recommend a small pouch called the Maxpedition Micro. I use it, it will fit in any normal trouser hip pocket, and can hold a lot of stuff.I recommend that you carry at least the following:
- Flashlight – the uses for a flashlight are endless, carry a small one and you’ll barely notice it until you need it, carry a big one and you can use it as a weapon in a pinch.
- Pen and paper – worth putting thought into, you can buy waterproof paper notebooks from Rite In The Rain, and space pens (pens that were developed by NASA for use in space, but which will also write upside down, underwater, in a vacuum etc.) from Fisher Space Pens.
- Small first aid kit – as far as my pockets go, this is merely constitues a couple of plasters and some antiseptic wipes, but if you have space it is worth adding triangular bandages, tourniquet etc..
- Lighter – small but very useful tool, you can buy windproof refillable ones, though everyone who cares agrees that the Douglass Field Lighter is the best.
- Needle and thread – this doesn’t need to be a full blown sewing kit, just a few needles, maybe kept in a film canister or similar small capsule, and a spool of thread, invaluable if your button should come of, or you get a rip in your trousers. Yo can buy fairly cheap, but very strong nylon or kevlar threads, impossible to break with your hands.
- A multi-tool – this can include a knife, but I would recommend carrying a dedicated knife as well, the main purpose of the multi tool is to provide tools which you might not need so regularly as a knife, that means needle nose pliers, tweezers (try to get a multi tool with these, they are so useful for all kinds of tasks), screwdrivers, you get the picture – I recommend the Leatherman Wave.
In addition to considering adding the above the your EDC, it is probably worth considering what you carry now, and how you carry it.
For instance, your keychain offers myriad possibilities: a small keychain flashlight as a backup to lend to a friend who doesn’t carry their own, you can buy excellent keychain sized multitools with various levels of functionality, etc.
With regards to carrying this stuff, I recommend a good quality, strong pair of cargo trousers, and a belt. Find some good trousers at a local army surplus store, or (if you money is no object and you really want quality) buy these.
Along with what they keep in their pockets, most people have a bag or pack that they keep with them, holding secondary, auxiliary or backup items, or items that are too big to keep in a pocket.
I do a lot of traveling, so my bag is largely centered around necessities for relative comfort in urban life (a full change of clothes, and a good hydration bladder), and maintaining this (a good sewing kit, and a wash kit). This corresponds fairly well to a ‘preparedness’ mindset.
- First things first, a backup to everything in you pockets is important. You had to buy a fairly small flashlight to fit in your pocket EDC, so buy a bigger, better one that can go in your bag. if the situation is small, and requires a single flashlight, use the one in your pocket, otherwise use the big one. It is always worth buying the right tool for the job.
- Second, a change of clothes is probably worth it, unless you never go anywhere at all. Make it functional; e.g. good pair of cargo pants, lightweight but string T-shirt, spare pair of hiking socks and undies, and a good spare jumper. I’ll say it again: spare jumper. the single most useful item of clothing you can have. it will warm you up, work as a blanket, and (if you make sure it’s the only one you own in that color/pattern) it provides an instant change of the major look of you outfit, a simple but effective disguise should you ever go on the run.
- Keep a pocket for a wash-bag, including deodorant, razor/foam/soap/brush whatever, toothbrush and paste, flannel or a spare hanky, bar of soap in a box/waterproof bag etc. just be sensible
- A hydration bladder is really worth it. the common names (Camelbak, source etc.) are good, but in my opinion, Geiger rigs are the best. They can be pressurized (though this is not automatic; you can use it with or without), hold up to 2 litres (easily enough for an EDC pack) and are compatible with a wide variety of filtration stems and extra gadgets. You can also buy any part separately, should you need a replacement.
- First Aid Kit. Although point #1 is applicable here, it is very important to have a decent FAK in you bag. It must contain at minimum: plasters, antiseptic wipes/cream, triangular bandage, pain killers (this is a great gadget for keeping two types of pills in), shears/bandage scissors (ideally both), tweezers (separate must-have for FAK, even if you have others in your EDC anyway) and wound dressings (ideally a variety). Other good things to have are: tourniquets, antihistamine, epipen, vaseline, burn cream, you can go on forever…
- Then there are miscellaneous items, which don’t fit into a category but are still very useful. Just good things to have (though this often depends on your situation) are: lock picks (check your local laws), slingshot (check the law again), binoculars/monocular, microfibre towel (packs down very small), space blanket, small survival kit, watch (I’m planing to write another article explaining the usefulness of EDC watches soon, so I won’t go into depth here), paracord (the Spooltool is a brilliant investment for spring and organising paracord), carabiners, etc.
Please take this as advice, but not as a hard-and-fast rulebook. What works depends on the person, so see what works for you.
Thanks for reading.
For us preparedness-minded people there are a lot of things we’re expected to acquire. Top on the list are necessities like food, water and energy needs; medical supplies and equipment; fuel and energy reserves; hunting, communication, and survival gear as well as many other things.
However, the acquisition of tangible “stuff” is not the only thing we need — it’s also crucial that we acquire skills.
In our family one of the skills we hold in high regard is firearm related skills. However when it comes to firearms training, the cost of ammunition nowadays makes it somewhat prohibitive for us to practice as much as we would like.
Because of this, I’m always looking for new equipment or gear that can help keep my firearms training as cost effective as possible. As an example, I recently posted a review of the SIRT laser pistol, which I found to be a very effective practice tool.
The only downside I found with the SIRT pistol is that it’s not a good tool to practice malfunctions. There’s no way of racking the slide or mimicking malfunctions because there is no working action.
Well, a friend of mine had recently developed a tool that fills the malfunction-practice gap. And best of all, it allows you to use your own firearm (currently any 9mm, 40 S&W, 45, 223/5.56).
It’s called the MagSim Loaded Magazine Simulator (LMS).
Reviewing the MagSim LMS
To practice my malfunction drills, up until this point I’ve typically used snap caps. The problem with snap caps is that you’re constantly having to pick them up, reload your magazines, and then set up the malfunctions again. For me, I would get quickly bored of this monotonous process and it would impact my training cycles. Worst of all, if I was training outside and the snap caps fell into the dirt, I would often times transfer dirt into my magazine and pistol action if I wasn’t careful (definitely not a good thing).
The benefit of the MagSim LMS is that it does not require you to continually reload your magazines with snap caps. It does this by simulating a live around in the magazine. This allows you to rack the slide and reset the trigger without the slide locking back, and at the same time you don’t have to worry about the extractor grabbing the LMS “round” and getting ejected when the action breaks open — requiring you to never have to reload a bunch of snap caps again.
In a nutshell, the MagSim LMS allows you to safely dry fire with your magazine in place just as you would with a normal loaded magazine (hence the “Loaded Magazine Simulator” nomenclature). Again, this is especially effective with malfunction practice because you never have to waste time picking up and reloading a bunch of snap caps (and it’s safer because there is no live-round lookalike going into your magazine).
For the last few weeks now, I’ve been practicing my malfunction drills with both my AR-15 and Glock pistol using the LMS. In both cases I’ve seen some nice improvements around my speed and automation with the malfunction drills – not because the LMS gives me any special abilities, but due to the fact that I can now put in a whole bunch more cycles in the same amount of time as before.
The MagSim LMS in Action
If you’re interested in checking out how the LMS works, my friend put together some nice LMS demonstration videos that you can watch here:
MagSim LMS Demo
MagSim AR15 Malfunction Clearing
The MagSim LMS has definitely found a place in my training regimen and I highly recommend it.
If you’re interested in learning more about or purchasing the MagSim, be sure to visit the website here: MagSim LMS.
Again, it’s available in .40 S&W, .45, 9mm as well as .223/556mm for the AR-style rifles.
Stay safe guys and happy training.
The following is a guest post by Javier C. who spent over a year living successfully out of his car. He shares his insights in this article. Keep in mind many of these tactics Javier details here would easily apply if you were ever forced to bug out with your vehicle.
From August 25th 2012 until over a year later, I slept and lived in my car in Los Angeles, California. I moved to Los Angeles for a dream and did not realize how expensive it was to live there.
So I began planning in my head and thinking how I might save money and how I might get out of the frustrating living situation I was in at the time. I decided living and sleeping in my car would be an idea that would satisfy both of those things I wanted for my life in Los Angeles.
It was truly a survival experience…
Throughout my time sleeping and living in my car, I learned a tremendous amount. Although it was very tough, it did in fact help me achieve my goals of saving money and being
able to live on my “own” in my car.
It didn’t come easy getting used to that life though. There were many learning experiences. I began writing a book while I was sleeping in my car. About how to survive living in one’s car.
There are many different aspects when it comes to sleeping and living in your car successfully — many of which require a plethora of survival skills. In all truthfulness, it really is a “survival” experience.
I was doing this so I could save money and get ahead in life. After all, it takes sacrifice if you want to get ahead in life. That’s what I have learned. Especially in this economy today, you never know when hardship may hit and having these survival skills in your pocket may just save your life one day when you really experience hardship.
All in all, I saved a great deal of money and had extra money I wouldn’t have had if I was paying rent somewhere.
In this article I’m going to go over a few key aspects it takes to successfully live in your car. Even if you never have to live in your car in your life, it’s good to be prepared. You never know what life may throw your way one day.
How to Successfully Live in Your Car
What to do for Food
When it comes to food, there are many options when living in your car. My purpose living in my car was to save as much money as I could so my food choices were dictated by that purpose:
- Canned Foods: There are canned foods such as beans, pastas, and tuna. Have a can opener ready or preferably have an easy to open top. That makes things much easier. Canned fruits or fruits in plastic cups work as well. They store well too.
- Peanut butter and Jelly sandwiches: These are easy to make in a car and only require a knife to spread it.
- Homeless shelters: Homeless shelters are a good source of free food. Just find one in your local area.
- Protein Bars: These are pre-packaged, somewhat healthy and easy to eat on the go.
- Fast Food: This is a somewhat cheap and accessible option but I generally went for the foods that were in a grocery store as they were cheaper. In grocery stores, they usually have a bakery or already-cooked foods section and these are somewhat affordable as well. I used to get 2 pieces of fried chicken and some potatoes and it was decently priced and nice to have some “real” food for a changes sometimes.
Where to Sleep
Finding the right parking place is probably one of the most key elements of sleeping in your car. A good sleeping area can make or break you living in your car. You have to find a place that is safe but also a place where you can stay on the down-low enough to not be noticed.
I personally parked in the lot of a 24-hour grocery store I used to work at. I lucked out. But I’d say if you can manage to sleep at a 24-hour store somewhere that would be good. Or in a neighborhood that is safe where you can stay under the radar.
Once you do find that place, you have to ensure you do everything you can not to be noticed. Part of that is making sure your car is properly “prepared”.
For example, I had dark tint on my windows. If you don’t, another option is to put dark towels up in front of the windows. You have to be inconspicuous though and make sure no one is around when you put them up. Just go to your spot, park, shut the car off and set the towels up. That is what I did.
Make sure you choose the same place for sleeping every night. It makes things a lot easier. Don’t tell anyone where you sleep.
Have the radio off long before you get to your spot so you don’t draw any attention to yourself.
Additional tip: do not open your doors once you get to your spot or get out of your car at all. It only draws more attention to yourself.
Where to take Showers:
Keeping good hygiene is absolutely key to living out of your car without being noticed. The more attention your draw, the easier it will be for you to be noticed and ultimately kicked out. It’s key that you don’t appear to be homeless and get identified as a squatter. For that reason hygiene is very important.
I took showers at a gym. I got a monthly gym membership. It was only $40 a month. So it was not much. I got to both work out and get clean. I recommend having a backpack with everything you need for the shower and a combination lock to lock up your stuff while you are in the shower.
Here are a few options of where to hang out on your day off work or when you have free time:
- Fast food chains: They usually have free WiFi for laptops. If you keep a low profile, it’s likely you will go generally unnoticed. Just make sure to keep to yourself for the most part. I didn’t even buy anything much of the time and no one cared to be honest.
- Public libraries are great places to hang out in your spare time especially if you have a laptop. There is free WiFi that does not expire like many food places. There are usually a good amount of seats. It is nice and cool inside or warm depending on the climate where you live.
- Malls are a decent area to hang out at as well. To find a seat and read a book or walk around. Just as long as you don’t have to pay for parking to be at a mall then it’s great.
- The gym is a great place as well. You can work out for a while to kill time and be inside.
- Friends: Having social connections are obviously a great way to pass the time.
Key items to Keep in your Car
- Gallon of drinking water: It’s important to always stay hydrated when living in your car. You are always going, always on the move much of the time. There were many times it was after work and I hadn’t had any water. It was always nice to have my gallon of water in the backseat under a towel. It costs about $.25 to fill it up at a grocery store.
- Pain medicine: Very useful when you have any kind of pain. There were many times while I was living in my car, it was late at night and my head was throbbing. It was nice to reach in my little soccer bag and take some pain medicine and be able to sleep peacefully after that.
- Car Fan: At night time I find it tough to sleep without some background noise, so this came in handy. It costs about $20 at an automotive store. It is enough wattage to be on all night and not kill the battery. Many nights it is too hot to sleep in a car without a fan.
In the summer time, if I didn’t have a fan I would have suffered greatly.
- Power Inverter: This is a device you can plug into your cigarette lighter and charge your laptop, cell phone, or any other electronic device as long it is a small enough wattage. It costs about $20 at many stores. Be careful what you charge. Some things will kill the battery if you charge it too long. Try to charge things while driving when possible because it doesn’t use the battery. The one I had had was 100 watts, which means anything you charge has to generally generate less electricity than that.
- Sleeping Bag: A good sleeping bag is key in any environment. Even in Los Angeles, in the winter and many times other seasons of the year as well I needed it. If I hadn’t had a good sleeping bag, I would have frozen and been very uncomfortable the entire night.
- Snacks/Food: It is important to always have some sort of food in your car. Preferably on the floor on the passenger seat side as I did. I used that section for my food. It was easy when I got hungry, I could just reach over and grab a banana to eat when I needed it. It’s crucial to always have at least some stuff ready to eat anytime you may need it. Not eating can cause many problems. There were many times after work I was extremely hungry and was leaving work and had a piece of fruit I reached for and ate right from my car.
- Jumper Cables: Sometimes for a couple different reasons, I found that my car battery died and I needed a jump. Most likely because I left the lights on or I charged my electronics too long without driving. It was a pain standing in front of a store asking people if they had jumper cables. I eventually got some jumper cables so when my car battery died, all I had to do was ask anyone who had a car around me if they could give me a jump rather than also having to ask them if they had jumper cables too.
- Vitamin C: Living in your car is not a normal thing obviously. There is more wear and tear and hardship than if you had a place to live. So it’s important to keep your immune system up. Vitamin C boosts the immune system. Anything you can consume with a lot of Vitamin C is great. Oranges or any drinks that have vitamin C in them are great. You cannot afford to get sick in your car when you already have enough other things to worry about.
- Spare Keys Container: Having spare keys around are very important while sleeping in your car. You never know when you may need them. I kept a spare key for my car always in my wallet. Also, I went to an automotive store and got 2 containers for about $10 that store keys and have a magnetic cylinder on the back so you can connect it to any metal at the bottom of your car for when you lose or lock your keys in your car.
Make sure to put it where no one can see it. Make sure no one knows it is there. Only you.
There are many important aspects to surviving living in one’s car. These are a few of the key ones. The important thing is keeping a low profile in all you do. That way, you can have the longevity to stay in your car as long as you need to.
You have to stay mentally strong and continually aware and focused of everyone and everything around you. Keep your head up. Always know it is not forever and is only a temporary situation.
The following article is a guest post by Bill from upstate NY.
In this article, I will be demonstrating how you can build a cold frame, which is like a mini greenhouse for the garden. It will allow me to plant my vegetables a couple of weeks early and keep them growing a couple of weeks later in the fall. All of this is depending on where you live and what you are growing, of course. There are also many types of coverings you can use. Some plastic sheeting is thinner, some thicker and better for insulating. Some allow more light through and some are used to give cool growing plants shade so they can do better in warmer weather than they normally would. Each has a trade off.
Most people I know would rather scrounge around for used and about-to-be-discarded materials. Like a contractor who has just built a house and now has to pay to dump the scrap lumber and other materials he used. Many times, if you ask, he will gladly give you all the scrap lumber you want, as long as he doesn’t think you might steal anything. You can usually find old windows and frames in good shape, which are great for a do it yourself cold frame.
What I chose to do is use lightweight PVC for this project. Schedule 40, furniture grade in 3/4 inch (inside diameter). I used white to save money but you can buy them in all kinds of colors or even paint or stain your own. For the most part, hardware stores and places like Home Depot will stock all the PVC you need, but the connectors are more tricky to find.
The cold frame I built measured about 26” side to side , 20” tall at the highest point and about 14” wide. That should be ok for a couple of plants with enough height to allow them to grow and not be too crowded. What I like about using PVC is that you can make things of any size quickly and as long as you don’t cement the pieces together, you can reuse the connectors and pipe in almost limitless variations.
I used a portable table saw to cut the PVC. The dust mask and safety goggles were used to keep the plastic out of my lungs and eyes. Even though this was a small project ,the amount of plastic “ dust “ generated was quite a lot . I cut it all inside for convenience but next time I’ll set up the saw horses and do it outside.
Here is an overview of all the pieces and tools to make this cold frame. There are several more types of PVC fittings available, but I wanted to make the cold frame inexpensive, so I used only 2 types of the fittings.
What You’ll Need to Build a PVC Cold Frame
Here’s a list of the parts I used:
- 3/4 inch (inside diameter) furniture grade PVC pipe (they came in 5′ pieces and I needed 17′, so I got 4 pieces which cost $16.00 and had 4 feet left over)
a) 3 pieces 24” long
b) 6 pieces 12” long
c) 4 pieces 10” long
- 6 of the 3 way fittings ( $1.04 ea. = $6.24)
- 4 of the 45 degree angle fittings ( $1.31 ea. = $5.24)
- 10 snap clamps cut to 4” long. (I bought a 5 foot long piece and cut it myself, $5.00)
( note : I used snap clamps made for 1 “ PVC because the 3/4 inch size was too hard to work with)
- 2.4 mil “grow tunnel” plastic ( A roll 6 1/2 feet wide by 25 feet long cost me $17.85
Total cost ( not including tax and shipping ) was $32.48 To make one bigger would cost very little extra.
These are the snap clamps. I bought them in 1 five foot long section and cut them into 4 inch pieces myself to save a little money. You can buy them pre-cut though. Note, I tried using the snap clamps made for the 3/4 inch pipe , but they were a very tight fit over the plastic. So I went up a size to 1 inch clamps , which were much easier to work with since I assembled the cold frame a few times to try various configurations. But , if you want a tighter fit use the 3/4 inch size. Just don’t plan on taking them off too many times.
How to Make PVC Cold Frames
Step 1: Assemble the bottom:
Step 2: Add the 45 degree fittings on top:
Step 3: Add the 4 pieces ( 10 “ long ) and the 3 way fittings that will allow you to attach the ridge piece.
Step 4: Add the ridge piece and drape plastic over structure
Step 5: Secure plastic covering
To make it a little faster and easier, I cut the plastic a little larger and just folded the excess under the snap clamp. Doing this saved a little time and if I wanted to re use the plastic on some other project later, the larger piece would come in handy.
I used a piece of paracord in between the ends to keep the plastic from pushing against the plants. I could not seem to find a PVC fitting that would allow me to have a section of pipe to be used for this, so when in doubt, use paracord.
Step 6: Finish by Securing the Lower Portions
To wrap the ends of the cold frame I just cut the plastic and folded it around the pipe and held it all in place with the snap clamps. If I had used the smaller 3/4 “ snap clamps this would have been difficult indeed to do.
Shown above is one side of the frame.
That’s it. This will keep you seedlings and plants quite a bit warmer and will prevent wind damage to young plants. It might be necessary to anchor it to the ground with a couple of tent stakes in windy locations.
In the summer, for cool loving plants, replace the plastic with a product called shade cloth. Basically a woven fabric that allows some light and water through it. It comes in various types , depending how much shade your plant needs.
Still, I would not keep the plant covered 24 / 7 . The whole frame weighs only 2 pounds or so, so I would lift it up so the plant can get some sun. For some types and sizes of plants, you might only need the cold frame over night.
In the spring, this will help the soil warm up a little faster and keep any light frost from hurting the seedlings, as well as discourage animals from eating you plants, up to a point. It will do a good job also, of holding humidity in.
As I said earlier, you can make almost anything using these materials. The whole thing can be disassembled and easily stored when not in use, as long as you do not cement the pieces together.
Look at the links I included to see many more ideas on how to use PVC.
This is a guest contribution by Lee Flynn. Lee Flynn is from the Greater Salt Lake area and grew up in a family where everything they did was outdoors. Lee was raised with survival and preparedness as a way of life. After graduating from college, he began a survival course teaching basic survival knowledge and preparedness advice and has been doing this now for 10 years.
Now that you’ve made the decision to create a food storage system based on your family’s needs, the first step is to determine where you’ll put it. You may only have enough space to store a few weeks’ worth of surplus food if you’re short on space. This is the time to get creative when it comes to building your emergency food storage. Whether you live in a house, condo, or apartment, every bit of available space has the potential to serve as a place to store extra food.
Food Storage Tips
Store your emergency food in a space that gets a limited amount of light and generally stays anywhere between 50 – 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Pantries, cupboards, or basements work great. Some families store surplus food in their crawl space under their home, provided the food is properly sealed and contained.
As long as food isn’t stored in extra warm temperatures or kept near hot pipes or furnaces, it probably won’t spoil. However, be sure to always check the expiration date on your storage food prior to eating it since it could possibly be bad. Many people also like to store food in a basement freezer chest with a variety of frozen foods as well.
What Kinds of Foods Should Families Store?
While you’re trying to figure out what kinds of foods to store, stop and consider what types of foods both you and your family actually like to eat. Don’t buy things you know your kids won’t touch. In order to build an effective food storage supply, stockpile the foods you’ll actually eat since you’ll be rotating your food supply anyway. Also, if you’re not accustomed to eating a particular food, you may find yourself with some unpleasant digestive issues in the end.
Here are some ideas for food staples that many people choose to stockpile in their emergency food supply. Again, consider the tastes of your family along with any special diets anyone may need to follow and adjust your supply accordingly.
Canned Vegetables and Fruits
Several canned vegetables and fruits are not only full of healthy vitamins and minerals, but they have a shelf life of at least three years.
Beans and Legumes
Dried navy beans, kidney beans, great northern beans, and a number of legumes can last up to 20 years if properly stored and they’re an excellent source of protein as well. Cook them and simply eat them plain, or put them in tasty homemade soups or other recipes.
Most people don’t realize the importance of salt. Your body needs the iodine found in salt in order to survive. Therefore, if you want to create a long-term food supply, put iodized salt on your list.
In many cases, dehydrated fruits and vegetables last longer on the shelf than several bottled or canned versions. A few produce items aren’t good for drying, but foods like peas, apricots, carrots, bananas, apples, and onions work especially well for dehydration.
It’s obvious you need water in your food storage. Ideally, your water should be stored in large polycarbonate barrels and kept in a cool, dark area. Figure one gallon per day per person; one-half gallon to drink, and the other half for hygiene and cooking. Also, the water inside your hot water heater can be put to use as well. Just be sure you have a quality water kit or purification tablets to ensure it’s usable enough for cooking and/or drinking if necessary.
If you want to use powdered milk in your back-up food supply, make sure it’s never exposed to any moisture and keep it cool and dry. Stored properly, powdered milk can last on the shelf as long as 18 – 24 months.
Not only is rice an excellent of source of energy for your body, it’s fairly inexpensive and makes an excellent staple to have on hand for various recipes or just plain. Rice can last 8 – 10 years on the shelf if it’s properly stored.
Your emergency home food storage supply can provide both you and your family with great peace of mind and satisfaction knowing your food requirements are met in case you ever need them in the face of an emergency. It also helps financially as well. With a solid plan, you can start building your food storage as soon as today, which will enable you to be fully prepared in those unfortunate times of economic or personal instability.
If there were one fire-making skill I’d recommend all preppers get good at it would probably be making fire from char cloth.
It’s a great skill for truly learning and understanding how to build a fire since it prevents fire-making “laziness” — something we can easily develop in the days of lighters and matches — since it forces you to collect and use only good materials and have your skills down pat.
In addition, these skills will also help you easily translate to getting a fire going from a primitive bow-drill, hand-drill or any other friction-fire method.
And finally, if the time ever came where you really needed to get a fire going, and you had an easier fire-starting tool like a lighter (which you should carry with you anyways), it will be that much simpler.
With that long winded intro, how do you go about making charcloth anyways?
Well, that’s the focus of this post and video.
The process is super simple but first let’s start with getting some ingredients:
What You’ll Need:
- Some metal or tin container: This could be an Altoids tin, a chew tin, or like I use an old pellet tin from my pellet gun.
- Some plant-based material: Cotton balls, cotton makeup remover pads, even cut up pieces from an old cotton t-shirt will work great. Other materials like flax, hemp, and burlap are also great.
- A heat source: This heat source is typically an open fire but it can also be your outdoor grill or even your indoor stove top if you need to (for which I”ll explain how to minimize the smoke so your significant other doesn’t kill you)
How to Make Charcloth
Making charcloth is a very simple process. If you’d prefer a visual demonstration, be sure to check out my video on making char cloth here:
Here’s the written description of the process:
Step 1: Step one is just to prepare your heat source if necessary. If this is an open flame than make sure it has burned down to a decent amount of coals for a coal bed. Other wise you can just use your grill or stove.
Step 2: Punch a hole in the top cover of the tin with a small nail
Step 3: Fill your tin with your cotton (or other) material and cover it up.
Step 4: Place your tin on top of the heat source
Step 5: After placing your tin on the heat source you’ll notice smoke starting to come out of the top hole. This smoke will continue until it stops at which time you’ll know the charcloth is complete.
How to Make Charcloth Indoors (without getting in trouble)
Making it indoors is the same process as above but instead of letting the smoke just bellow out of the hole and filling your kitchen and home, you can light the smoke with a flame. It will stay lit much like a candle. When that flame goes out, your charcoal is complete.
This video is a follow up to the previous blog post on 18 Bug-Out Uses for a Trash Bag.
How to Make Rope from a Trash Bag
When it comes to your bug-out bag — given the limits you have in terms of space and weight — the best survival items you can pack are those that are lightweight, have multiple uses, and don’t take up much space.
I’m sure you know the importance of duct-tape and paracord (and likely have those in your bag right now) however, there is one item that many of us overlook that should also be in there…
A trash bag.
Yes, trash bags — especially heavy-duty contract bags — are one of those excellent cost-effective, space-saving, multi-use items that should be in every bug out bag. They have a plethora of uses, 18 of which I’ll be listing in this article.
18 Uncommon Bug-Out Uses for a Trash Bag
- Warm Shower: Fill your trash bag with water, tie it up above your head and let it sit in the warm sun. The black color of the bag will absorb the sun’s rays heating up the water. Once the water has reached your desired temperature, poke some tiny holes to enjoy a nice warm shower.
- Food Transporter: Whether you just took some game while bugging out or if you’ve opened your packaged food and need a clean place to put it in, a trash bag makes for a great container for transporting and protecting game meats, opened food, etc.
- Water Container: Besides a one-time use shower, a trash bag can make a decent way of transporting a fair amount of water if you’ve lost or don’t have a water container. Here’s where having a contractor bag would be idea given their strength.
*Note: Some trash bags (not so much contractor bags) are lined with chemicals on the inside to prevent odors and mold. It’s not a bad idea to turn the bags inside out if using them for the above purpose>
- Water Collector: Dig a hole around 2 feet in diameter and 2 feet deep, tear open your bag so it’s one large piece and lay it over the hole to set up a makeshift rain water collector or container.
*Note: Some trash bags (not so much with contractor bags) are lined with chemicals on the inside to prevent odors and mold. Given that, it’s not a bad idea to turn the bags inside out if using them for the above purpose>
- Poncho: Trash bags make for excellent ponchos. Just rip a hole in the bottom of the bag for your head and two on the side for your arms and it will do a fine job at keeping the wet weather at bay.
- Waterproof Leggings: Take two trash bags and place one foot with your shoes on inside each. Tie up the bags around your ankles and calves with some duct tape or cordage (both of which aren’t bad ideas to have in your BOB). Now you have some decent waterproof leggings to temporarily cross through shallow brooks or streams or traversing over deep, wet snow.
- Gear Protector (Dry Bag): You can use the bags to keep your gear stored in your BOB dry while traveling in wet conditions. In addition, you can enclose your entire bug-out bag with the trash bag (cutting slits for your backpack straps to get through) for a makeshift poncho for your bag.
- Makeshift Toilets: If you happen to have bugged out to an urban area and there aren’t many places to dig a latrine, trash bags make for excellent makeshift toilet liners (like in a 5-gallon bucket or in a non-functioning toilet if the grid’s down).
- Comforter and Pillow: Large trash bags filled with leaves or other light debris make for great expedient comforters that can be placed on top of you when it’s cold out. In addition, a smaller bag (or a large one only partly filled with leaves) will work pretty decent as a pillow (it would be best to place a piece of cloth on it (like a Shemagh or bandana) for your face to lie on for more comfort.
Although less than ideal, you could also partially inflate the bag for a pillow (but it will be less comfortable than leaves or other soft debris).
- Strong Rope: Yes, trash bags can actually make surprisingly strong cordage and rope when braided correctly. I plan on doing a video of this pretty soon so I’ll update this article with that when I do.
- Ground Cloth: One thing that’s very important when setting up a tent or other makeshift shelter is laying down a groundcloth to keep the moisture from coming up from the ground into your shelter at night. A trash bag cut open and laid out will help in this way.
- Makeshift Shelter/Lean-To: While obviously not ideal, a trash bag can work as a fair shelter against wind, rain and the sun’s rays. Just stretch it out and tie it off as you would with a standard lean-to shelter.
- Life Preserver/Flotation Device: While certainly not Coast Guard approved, trash bags can be blown up with air like a balloon, tied off, and be used to provide flotation while crossing bodies of water. A few of these can also be tied to a makeshift raft to aid in buoyancy. Again, the stronger the bag (like a contractor bag) the better to prevent tearing and puncturing.
- Arm Sling: Similar to how the boy scouts use their neckerchiefs for slings, you can follow the same approach to sling someone’s arm if recently injured.
- Bandage Protector: If you’ve just finished bandaging up someone’s wound, you can use a strip of a trash bag to wrap over the bandage and tie it off to further protect the bandage and wound from getting dirty.
- Bug Out Washing Machine: For extended bug-out travels you can place your dirty clothes in a bag, some soap scrapings (or if you packed small amounts of detergent) and some water, twist or tie off the bag and vigorously shake the bag for a few minutes. Drain the dirty water, replace with clean water and repeat for the rinse cycle.
- Window Black Outs: While at your bug-out location or when bugging in, you can use trash bags to cover your windows at night — preventing a “light signal” to those less-than-friendly people looking for occupied residences. Again, it’s best to use contractor bags here since some thinner bags will require multiple layers.
- Cold Compress: Trash bags can be filled with snow or ice (if available) to provide for a makeshift compress for treating inflammation caused by injury.
*Note: Some trash bags (not so much with contractor bags) are lined with chemicals on the inside to prevent odors and mold. It’s not a bad idea to turn the bags inside out if using them for the next three uses.
In addition, let me just stress again that while normal trash bags can work in the above examples in a pinch, again, ideally you want to pack contractor bags which you can find at most any hardware stores.
Also, as a side note, others have mentioned using trash bags as “thermal underwear”. While it will hold in heat, it’s not a good idea since it also traps in moisture, which when cold outside can easily lead to hypothermia. True thermal underwear “breathes” to allow the moisture to escape.
If I were to guess, activated charcoal is probably not one of the items found in your med kit right now.
Well, it’s time you change that…
The thing is, in a long-term disaster or a post-collapse situation, you’ll likely not have access to professional medical help. And if you or your loved one accidentally ingests something poisonous, it could end up being a very bad day for you or yours.
That’s where having activated charcoal could be a very real life saver.
In this article you’ll discover just what activated charcoal is and how it can be used to ward off potential disaster when things go very bad. In addition, you’ll learn about many of the other potential uses that this long-standing “medicine” has.
Activated Charcoal Throughout History
The first recorded use of charcoal for medicinal purposes comes from Egyptian papyri around 1500 B.C. as a method of staving off infection of open wounds. Since then, activated charcoal has continued to be an effective form of treatment for a variety of ailments down to the present time.
In fact, it’s common to find activated charcoal in modern emergency rooms for treatment of drug overdose and poisoning.
How does it work you ask? Well, read on…
How Activated Charcoal Performs its “Magic”
It may at first seem a bit unbelievable as to how a simple black powder can be so effective at removing poisons from the body. But there’s real scientific reasons as to why.
Activated charcoal works mainly by adsorption (no I didn’t spell that incorrectly). Since activated charcoal is 100% alkaline (i.e. negatively charged), this negative ionic charge attracts postive ionic charges like toxins and poisons, causing them to bind to the charcoal which then gets escorted out of your body through the eliminative process of your intestines.
Even when made as a poultice (a moist paste of charcoal and water that you spread over a wound or sting) this adsorption process will work to draw out poisons caused by stings and bites of animals.
Basically the process that creates activated charcoal (steam heating and oxidation) ends up creating an internal lattice of very fine pores. This structure allow s charcoal to adsorb over 100 times its weight in bacteria, toxins and other positively charged chemicals (like drugs and unwanted medicine).
For that reason, it’s important that you don’t ingest charcoal if you’ve recently (within the last 2 – 4 hours) taken perscription medicine for medical reasons since it can also adsorb certain medicines as it does poisons.
Here are just some of the examples of charcoal remedies (both internal external) that you’ll find used in modern as well as folk medicine:
- food poisoning / drug overdose: This is really the only remedy I’ve found where charcoal is used in modern medicine. My ER doctor friend has used charcoal a number of times in the Emergency Room for drug-overdose patients.
- elimination of toxins that contribute to anemia in cancer patients
- stomach bug/flu: This has worked very well in my family. Anytime we feel a stomach bug coming on we take a teaspoon of charcoal in a cup of water which stops it in its tracks.
- filter toxins from blood
- minor arthritic symptoms
- sore throat irritation
- tooth abscesses
- disinfect wounds
- teeth whitening: Charcoal surprisingly does an excellent job at removing tartar and plaque buildup on teeth (no the black will not stain your teeth) and even removes stains (especially those caused by coffee).
- cold sores
- insect bites: Very effective against bee and wasp stings. I’ve personally seen this work wonders for my 4-year old daughter with a wasp sting. The pain subsided very quickly after making a poultice and covering her sting.
- snake bites
Is Activated Charcoal Something I Can Make?
As a quick warning, this is not the charcoal that comes as briquettes that you use in your charcoal grill. Since many of them are laden with dangerous fillers and petrochemicals (firestarter) to help them ignite, ingesting or using these for medical purposes could certainly lead to a very bad day for you or your loved ones.
True activated charcoal is made industrially through a process of exposing pure charcoal to hot steam in order to oxidize it. So while you can certainly make normal charcoal from a woodfire and grind it up fine enough to be somewhat effective (if that’s all you had available to you), it’s not the same.
Given the purity that you can buy as well as it’s practically limitless shelf life I would still highly recommend you purchase it.
Where Can I Purchase Activated Charcoal and How Can I Learn To Use It?
It’s important that you purchase a high-quality charcoal. Here’s the one that I recommend and buy for my own family:
In addition, if you want to learn all of the fantastic ways to use this as well as dosing information be sure to check out some of these resources:
As preppers we all know the importance of keeping our firearms and electronics free from moisture when they are put away for storage. For this reason, before caching or storing items such as these for the long term its crucial you include some type of desiccant (or water absorber) in with your stored items.
Most preppers use silica gel, but what if you don’t have any on hand?
Well, here in the US, there is a huge supply of desiccant that you can readily use in a pinch if you can’t get a hold of silica gel.
What is it you ask? Well, it’s none other than drywall. Yup, common gypsum wallboard found in most homes throughout the US.
How to Make Homemade Desiccant
Similar to silica gel, if you want to activate drywall to become a anahydrate or desiccant you need to heat it up long enough to remove the moisture. Here’s the process:
|Step 1: Preheat your oven to 450F
|Step 2: Grab a 1/2 foot x 1/2 foot piece of drywall.
|Step 3: Remove the paper (it helps by wetting the paper first) and break it up in 1″ square pieces, then place those pieces on a cookie sheet and into the oven.
|Step 4: Let it heat for about an hour which will remove all the moisture.|
|Step 5: Remove from oven and while hot, immediately place in an air-tight container that won’t melt from heat (a mason jar is a perfect container for this).
How to Use your DIY Desiccant
To use your desiccant place a handful of it inside a sock and stash it in the storage container that is housing your electronics, firearms or other items you’re interested in keeping away from moisture.
Here are just a few examples of where to use your homemade desiccant:
- In the bottom of your gun safe
- In your survival cache tube (like a PVC pipe where you cache your firearms)
- Inside a sealed Mylar bag that contains your electronics
- In your gym bag to prevent mold, mildew, and odors
- With silver jewelry or silverware to slow tarnishing
- In your toolbox to prevent rusting
- Inside containers holding stored clothes and blankets to prevent mildew
- Inside of anything you store in the basement
- In a safe with important documents
- Inside of cases with seed packets to keep them from molding
- and much more..!
The following pictures give an example of how effective this is as a desiccant. I threw a handful of these desiccants in a mason jar that just came out of the dishwasher. After a few minutes the homemade desiccant had absorbed all the water in the jar.
A Quick Related Tip
As a quick side note (in case you missed the reference above), be sure to hang onto any silica gel packets you come across that are packaged in various products you’ve purchased. They can also be reused by heating them up in the oven and storing them as described above.